Leading up to my visit to West Cliffs, I’d heard nothing but positives about this venue, not only from golfers who’d played the course, but from media colleagues who’ve travelled the world and seen the very best golf courses globally. Some have even called it the best golf course they’ve ever played in Europe. High praise indeed, but does it live up to the hype?
First Impressions
The setting as you arrive is quite spectacular. The clubhouse itself commands a grand presence with huge wooden beams wrapping around the roof and extending into the covered outdoor area. The views are breathtaking. Even now, as I write this report, I’m sat in a quiet corner of the clubhouse, a lovely space to get work done or simply relax before heading out for your round.
World Class Facilities
As you’d expect from a facility that opened in 2017, everything is top notch. The putting green sits right outside the pro shop, whilst a 50 yard walk takes you to the expansive practice ground with plenty of space to work on your game. Tucked down the side of the 9th hole, another 50 yards in the opposite direction you’ll find a beautiful short game facility that replicates what you’ll face on the course itself.
The Course
West Cliffs was designed by Cynthia Dye, niece of legendary golf architect Pete Dye, and opened in June 2017. Set on 200 hectares of coastal dunes and vegetation, it offers Atlantic Ocean views from every hole.
In my mind, this is a modern links course. It’s not what you’d have seen created in the early days of golf, it features extensive waste bunkering that many classic UK links courses have lost over the years as vegetation has overgrown. Clubs like Prince’s in Kent and Trevose are bringing back those waste areas, but West Cliffs has them integrated from the start.
Tee to Green Excellence
Tee to green, I have to say, this is one of the most fantastic golf courses I’ve had the opportunity to play. It demands every shot imaginable; draws, fades, high balls, low runners. You need to shape shots based on what’s in front of you. There’s plenty of elevation change too, which makes for an awfully long walk. This is why you see so many golfers opting for buggies. The walks between greens and tees can be a bit lengthy, probably the only disappointment about the layout but it’s understandable given the scale of the property.
Where West Cliffs Shows Its Teeth
It’s around the greens where this golf course truly reveals its challenge. The greens are composed of bent grass, but these are some of the most grainy greens I’ve ever encountered. Having played plenty of golf on Bermuda grass in Florida, I can honestly say these are amongst the hardest greens I’ve faced.
I don’t know if it’s because they were slightly longer during the winter period we played, allowing more grain to develop, or if they’re simply built that way. Either way, they provided an incredible teaching opportunity during our coaching trip. You can see the dark effect when putting into the grain and the light, almost white appearance when putting down grain. Putting across the grain becomes exceptionally difficult to judge.
Your approach shots demand serious thought too. Landing into the grain stops the ball quickly; landing down grain and it’ll run away from you. It’s a massive test of your game management and touch.
Does It Rank Number One in Europe?
Some golfers here this week have called it their number one in Europe. That’s difficult for me to say definitively. I’ve played some amazing courses, particularly in Portugal, and West Cliffs certainly ranks in my top three or four Portuguese courses. Located about an hour’s drive north of Lisbon, it’s perfectly positioned for a golf package.
This week we combined West Cliffs with Praia d’El Rey and Royal Óbidos, three outstanding courses in one area. You genuinely will not be disappointed.
The Verdict
West Cliffs is a spectacular modern links that demands strategic thinking, shot making ability, and exceptional touch around treacherous greens. The facilities are world class, the routing is thoughtful, and the setting is simply stunning.
Is it the best in Europe? That’s for you to decide. But it’s absolutely worthy of being in that conversation.
Dan Hendriksen, PGA Professional